Monday, October 21, 2013

SBP 10.21.13 and Stone Gardens Bellevue 10.20.13 and Weigh in

Monday Weigh in 181.5 at 9:00PM

In reverse chronological order here we go.  SBP had a bouldering competition on Saturday that has been thwarting my best laid workout plans.  Closed Thursday, Friday, Saturday they re opened today with most of the competition routes up.  This means many fewer routes to choose form though they are all new.  I probably knocked out 15 routes today.   I was climbing hard and projecting routes but not following the plan so to speak.  I feel my original plans have left me strong but as I stray away my gains wain.  I can now climb V5 at SBP which is a big gain since the summer began.

At Stone Gardens I climbed with Nick using a point system.  We were lead climbing so routes were on a 5 point scale.  We were assigned points mirroring the grade.  A 5.9 is worth 9 points.  Routes that are at ones climbing grade are worth double. so a 5.10 is worth 20 points.  Routes above are also double.  We climbed to 100 points.  I tapped out at exactly 100 feeling totally worked.

Tuesday, October 15, 2013

SBP 10.15.13

After two days off I started off with the green circuit once again.  The climbing was going poorly at first, my hands were cold from the bike ride to the gym and my head was not in it, resulting in poor climbing and difficulties on easy routes.  After 10-15 boulder problems I started to get warmed up and into climbing mode.  I was able to complete two V5 projects and feel strong and smooth. on several V4s which disquieted me in the past.  Still a bit sore in the distal interphalangeal joint (the joint closest to the fingernail.) for both middle fingers.

I completed most of the green circuit, however; the gym has put up very few new routes over the last few weeks so I have gotten distracted and moved to other routes of similar grades.

Sunday, October 13, 2013

Frenchman Coulee 10.5.13

With Erin, I drove out to Frenchman Coulee for the day to work out some sport problems.  We ended up at River View park trying to avoid crowds.  I got in 3 leads and several repeats of each.  I was unable to get the 5.9 I tested out but got a 10A!
Area:
RiverView Park
5.8 Oh Coulee, Oh Coulee
5.10A Bob is Real
5.8 Masticate Expectorate
Trying to work out the start of One Move Blunder 5.9 I can to the conclusion it wasn't work the ground fall to get to the first bolt so we moved on.  Oddly the start to the 5.10A next to is was far more secure.
Sunshine Wall
5.8 Crossing the Threshold (Trad)

As a training note, after leading a route I like to climb it two additional times for speed and to work out any areas that felt less that comfortable.

Check out the routes here:

http://www.justgetout.net/ClientFiles/8ecf9e69-8f8f-419d-91d8-10c7ca9cbcbb/VantageGuide-AllEdited-515.pdf

Friday, October 11, 2013

SBP 10.11.13

It was dink around day as SBP.  Bored of the green circuit I worked on some V3-4-5 projects and finally managed to conquer some V5s!  I am feeling much stronger on crimps and slopes.  Unfortunately my fingers have been starting to stiffen up as a result of the increased climbing volume. I am going to stay away from weighted climbing and finger boards for a weeks or so.

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Refining your goals is key to training. Here are a look at mine.

October marks the beginning of the winter climbing training season for me.  My mid term climbing goal is to climb the North Ridge of Stewart in July.  Several thousand vertical feet of climbing in addition to a 6 mile approach equal the ultimate day trip. To achieve this goal, I have decided to spend one weekend per month through February on Rock.  Two weekends in Feb. 3 weekends in March, April, and we will take it from there.  Does anyone else have set climbing goals for NEXT summer?

SBP 10.7.13

Todays fast paced session was once again spent on the green routes.  working on speed I was able to knock out about 15 routes in 25 minutes.  I down-climbed all V2s and ran from route to route.  The remaining 5 I did took the last half hour of my session.  I would guess the average route height to be at 15 vertical feet.  20 routes at 15 vertical feet = 300 vertical feet.  I would like to be able to get 1500 feet vertical in once per week by Feb.